Ann Demeulemeester S/S12 Sandal
INAISCE S/S12
PAST, PRESENT, AND FALL/WINTER/THE EGO, THE ID, AND BEYOND: LOOKING AT JULIUS F/W2012
From the depths of a supernatural and surreal darkness emerges the mystic black figures of designer Tatsuro Horikawa’s collection Julius. In this upcoming seasons collection for Fall/Winter Horikawa moves away from the truly distressed and destroyed fabrics that emblematize his previous seasons; instead he utilizes the wholesomeness of wools, canvases, jersey, and cotton fabrics. Emphasizing oversized details, strong asymmetry, and overflowing long drapery refined with narrow trousers and slim-fitted sleeves to create counter-balance to the latent energy in each look.
Zippers, zippers, and more zippers. Verticality and the persistence towards form and functionality; Horikawa opposes the Bauhaus and instead enriches this collection with the decadent beauty of intense emotion and demonstrative progression of the inner self. The ego and the id.
Of all the collections that I’ve seen this past week, it was this collection that spoke volumes to me. Perhaps it was the Rachmaninov I listened to while viewing the show, rather I think it is the humanness and humanity that this collection expresses. In looking at the final walk of all the models, there is a definite poetry to their homologous relation to one other. From the pensive stoicism on the models faces to the exquisite balance in each pieces asymmetry, correlating to the majestic sentiment of a voluminous collar or three-quarter length coat, every piece relates to one other in a beautifully artistic and portentous manner. The fantastic cyclical evolution that does not only evolve into the darkness, but out of it as well.
Written by Martin Narrod
All Photographs Courtesy of Matt Reeves at of darkroomdemons.com
Rick Owens FW11
